The Splunk command fieldsummary is amazing – I use it quite frequently to explore more “new” (to me) sourcetypes, and to find out about more fields than I’ve previously used in the sourcetypes I work with most.
But sometimes you want to be able to delineate more granularly than fieldsummary will allow.
Maybe you have a single sourcetype that happens to have a couple variations (Forescout CounterACT data is like this (it’s all JSON, but there are ways to distinguish events based on the field ctupdate)).
index=ndx sourcetype=srctp <field_to_split_on>=*
| fields - _raw index sourcetype
| foreach *
[ eval <<FIELD>> = mvindex('<<FIELD>>',0) ]
| stats latest(*) as * by <field_to_split_on>
| transpose 0 header_field=<field_to_split_on>
| rename column as field
Run this in Verbose mode over a long enough time window to capture what you want to see (at one customer, I could pick earliest=-20m and have an ample sample).
I’m removing the fields _raw, index, and sourcetype because I “know” the index and sourcetype, and _raw just isn’t that helpful in this context.
You may have heard of the recently-discovered/-published TLStorm vulnerability that affects – at least – APC SmartUPS devices.
One of the prime issues highlighted is the embedded nanoSSL library that APC has used on these systems.
If you want to find out if your system is affected, the following nmap except should start you towards a solution:
for octet in {30..39}; do (nmap -A -T4 192.168.0.$octet > nmap-192.168.0.$octet.out &) ; done
This will kick-off nmap to run in parallel. When they all finish (you can monitor how many are running using ps aux | grep nmap), you can then process the files rapidly thusly:
grep -i nano nmap*.out
If nanoSSL has been found, you’ll get a listing of all IPs running it (since you cleverly named your files with the IP in the name).
The mitigations you choose to implement have been explained well in the articles linked above, but finding these systems can be a pain.
This morning I made my first carafe of coffee with it.
First the pros:
very easy to brew a pot of coffee
it’s easy to pop the K-Cup holder out and swap to crafe mode
even without using the “keep warm” feature, coffee stays warm-to-hot in the carafe for a long time
cleanup is a breeze
Now for the con:
If you follow the directions for how much coffee to use to brew (1-2 tablespoons per 6oz of water) … it comes little “thick” (I used a little over 9 T of Folger’s – should have gone for about 1/5-1/4 less).
The strength of the brew was fine, but it’s not as smooth as I think coffee is supposed to be.
As promised a few days ago, here’s the Big Writeup™ on our new coop
First, the pictures
That’s a lotta pictures! And I didn’t post them all ?
Some of the key features of the this coop:
6’x8′ exterior floor dimensions
the floor’s covered in peel-n-stick vinyl tiles for easy cleaning
12′ roof, which overhangs on the high and low sides by ~2′, and on the other two sides by ~1′
4′ wide, 12′ long roof over the first part of the run
both roofs drop ~2′ over the 8′ of the width of the coop – making snow accumulation very unlikely
coop’s elevated about 30″ off the ground (makes for easy emptying of bedding material into wheel barrow)
pair of 6′ roosting bars
pair of 3-berth nesting boxes, with easy access from the outside (way better than the old coop, which mandated opening the door to get to them)
8’x24′ fully enclosed-run
plenty of ventilation (including removable window covers on the run side of the coop for use during the colder months)
plenty of light – there’s a 2’x6′ skylight on the high side of the coop
cleated entry ramp for the chickens to get from the ramp to the coop
as close to predator-proof as is reasonable to do
hardware cloth over the rear access gates, all windows, and the run door
poulty netting around the entirety of the run, with a second stretch of welded-wire over the bottom 30″
poultry netting & cedar pickets enclosing two sides of the shaded region under the coop
poultry netting or pickets blocking open access to the roof rafters
mostly weather-proof location for feeder and waters (partially under the coop on the run side)
full-height run access door (was able to repurpose and reinforce an old screen door I had)
run anchored against sliding with 12″ rebars driven into the ground around the base
What improvements do know I have left?
add water collection system to capture runoff
this will also allow for [semi]automatic watering vs schlepping a couple gallons of water a day to the waterer
shedette on the back side of the coop (facing away from the house) for food, tool, etc storage
How long did it take?
Calendar time, start to finish was about 3.5 months
Work time, start to finish was about 10-12 days
How much did it cost?
…more than I wish – but less than it could have 😉
Seriously, though – it wasn’t horrible: well under $2000 total 🙂
Could probably have saved some more on cost if I hadn’t bought the coop frame materials in July 2021 … but – c’est la vie: it had to be done, so we done did it 🙂
What would I do differently if I knew then what I know now?
First, I wouldn’t have preframed the wall panels – precut all the materials, sure: but preframing the walls turned out to make it more difficult to assemble than I had hoped
Second, I’d’ve accounted for materials better, so I didn’t have to make quite as many trips to my local Lowes ?
Third, I’d’ve made it 8’x8′ so I’d’ve had less cutting of plywood to do 🙂
Fourth, I’d’ve placed the floor cover (whether peel-n-stick tiles, or linoleum, or something else entirely) before mounting the floor to the posts and adding the walls – would’ve been way simpler!
Should you build a coop more-or-less like this one?
I don’t know – he’s on third, and I don’t give a darn!
Whoops – out popped an old comedy routine quote 😛
If you’ve got the space and the inclination to build it, something like this on your property could be an absolute blast of a project to undertake! I had more fun than not getting it built and ready for the chickens
If you decide to build a coop like this one, let me know! I’d love to see how yours turns out!
If you’d like copies of the rough drawings I made of each part, I’d be happy to share those, too
After close to a decade, my old Keurig brewer finally bit the dust last week 🙁
Given we can’t go long without needing hot water or got beverages in the family…it became “urgent” to replace it
We had been looking for a while, knowing a replacement was going to be necessary “soon” – so we already knew we wanted a brewer that would do both k-cups and brew regular coffee into a carafe
Keurig has a few that will do this, as do some other brands – but most of the reviews for them are…less than hearty praise
The two Ninja models we were considering, though, the CFP201 and CFP301 were very well rated
And for an added bonus – they were not more expensive than comparable Keurig models
However, I still wasn’t relishing the idea of paying well over $200 for a coffee maker :/
Thankfully, we didn’t have to
Kohl’s had a sale on Ninja appliances last week, and we has stackable coupons (percent and actual dollars off) plus Kohl’s rewards available (if you used them in store)…so to our local store I went (about 20 minutes before closing)
We had just moved to our “farm” to be closer to family out of the “big city” (not a farm, and not a big city … but you get the idea)
My father-in-law had some spare hens, so we built a simple pallet coop on a basic frame (some 2by pressure treated runners and a sheet of 3/4 plywood on top for the floor – a couple recovered/reused metal roof panels for the lid), and started our chicken-raising journey
It was greatinterim coop – and could have been a great long-term coop … if we’d made it double the size
But we only planned to have 3-5 chickens at any given time, so it was good enough…until we decided we wanted more
While it could “handle” 7 or 8, it was tight
During the initial weeks of the pandemic in 2019, I made some improvements to the old coop while we planned a new one – added a window, redid the run door, redid the coop door…basic stuff – maybe a $100 in materials all told
But it wasn’t going to handle more than ~6 chickens for any extended period of time, and it needed to be moved and/or have the run greatly expanded to really manage the flock well
Enter planning for a new coop
Oh
And watching lumber prices go through the roof 😐
While we waited for prices to at least start to come down, we reviewed scores of shapes and ideas – finally settling on a mild variation of a couple that kept popping-up when we’d look
First up was that it be raised off the ground so the chickens would have a shaded and rain-free area to congregate outside their coop, and a shaded and rain-free area for their food and water to be
Second was to ensure it could handle as many as 25 chickens without too many issues
Third was ensuring the run was bigger than the old one, and tall enough to stand under (the old run is only about 5′ at its highest point – making it impossible to stand under if you’re not a young kid)
Fourth was ensuring the new coop could be easily cleaned-out
Fifth was making sure there is more than one way to get into the run if the need arises
Sixth was ensuring the new coop would be well ventilated, and give the chickens substantially more light inside than the old one has
Ultimately, this led to a 6’x8′ coop with nesting boxes in the walls (so they’re not taking-up floor space), an 8’x24′ run plus the under-coop area (an additional 8’x6′ region), a 6’x2′ wall-width skylight, and ample well-screened ventilation windows
My next post will share in-progress photos, an approximate materials list, and ideas on what I’d do differently if I knew then what I know now
north- and south-facing shots of the whole coop with run (with our 4’x8′ hoop house raised bed and the coopette with the new layers visible in the foreground)
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